Adv Exp Med Biol
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An 8000-m peak bring challenges of extremes of hypoxia and weather as well as the normal hazards of climbing itself. These challenges have taken a severe toll: 604 mountaineers have died on those great peaks since 1950. Little is known about whether mountain height, use of supplemental oxygen, or team size might influence rates of death or of success. ⋯ We present several examples from a research program that is attempting to analyze factors that potentially influence success or death rates on the 8K peaks. (1) Apparent risk of death in the notorious Khumbu Icefall on Mt. Everest has declined dramatically in recent years. This decline could reflect improved route finding and technique, but might also reflect climate warming, which has caused the Khumbu glacier to shrink and slow in recent decades. (2) Risk of death during descent from an 8000-m peak increases with the height of the peak. (3) Risk of death during descent from the summit of Everest or of K2 is elevated for climbers not using supplemental oxygen. (4) We outline some new studies that are exploring how convective heat loss, which influences wind chill, changes with altitude as well as the incidence of storms: both factors will impact the probability success and death of Himalayan mountaineers.
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Chronic mountain sickness (CMS) is a poorly understood syndrome, characterized by hypoxemia and polycythemia and occurring in persons residing at high altitude. To better characterize the disorder, we have reviewed measurements in more than 750 men and 200 women living at altitude as published and as submitted by colleagues. In men, blood hemoglobin concentration (Hb) and arterial oxygen saturation (SaO2) related to altitude (r=0.72). ⋯ Pulmonary hypertension was related to chronic hypoxia, with an uncertain contribution from polycythemia. In CMS there were profound hypoxemia at night, decrease in cerebral blood flow, and loss of cerebral blood flow regulation, possibly causing the cerebral symptoms. We speculate that the relationship of Hb to SaO2 is more useful than of hemoglobin to altitude, that hypoventilation awake and asleep are the primary causes accentuating altitude-hypoxia, and that the brain is the primary target organ in the disorder.
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Opioids such as morphine are potent analgesic and addictive compounds. Chronic morphine use also induces immunomodulatory and immunosuppressive effects, as especially evident in HIV-infected patients. Morphine acts on the immune cells primarily through its binding to mu-opioid receptors on the plasma membrane. ⋯ The results of the competitive RT/PCR indicated that CEM x174 cells expressed KOR mRNA constitutively, in the order of femto-grams. Treatment of 10 microM of morphine resulted in the up-regulation of KOR gene expression 24 hr post-treatment. The observed morphine effect could be reversed by treating the cells with either naloxone (a KOR-partially selective antagonist) or nor-Binaltorphimine (a KOR-selective antagonist).